1. What seed potatoes are and why healthy seed matters
Seed potatoes are tubers grown and certified specifically for further planting. They are inspected for health status, carry a known variety and come with documentation of origin and multiplication class.
Regular table potatoes from a shop do not go through this process. They can carry viruses or bacterial diseases, you may not know the variety or age, and the field result is unpredictable. For commercial production, table potatoes are not used as seed.
Healthy certified seed is one of the basic prerequisites for an even stand, yield and quality. Some diseases and harmful organisms can burden the plot for further seasons.
2. How to choose the variety
Variety choice sits on three axes: earliness (very early, early, mid, late), intended use (early table, table cooking type, fries and crisps, starch, organic) and local conditions (soil type, rainfall, irrigation, disease pressure).
The cooking type (A, B, C) is chosen according to the intended culinary use; fries call for a variety with matching dry matter and shape, starch factories for a variety selected on starch yield. Organic programmes weigh a combination of traits — resistance, earliness and fit with local conditions.
- What is the intended use — fresh, processing, starch, organic
- How long is the season locally and is irrigation available
- What storage is available and for how long
- What is the crop history on the plot and the disease risk
3. When to plant potatoes
The signal to plant is soil condition, not a calendar date. As an indicative guide, the soil should be warmed to around 8 °C at planting depth, dry enough to work well and free of compaction. In most parts of the Czech Republic this typically falls between the second half of April and early May; earlier in warmer regions, later at higher altitudes.
Planting into cold, wet soil is a common mistake — tubers emerge slowly, rot more easily and the crop starts at a disadvantage. Also watch for late frosts; young foliage is easily damaged.

4. Pre-sprouting (optional preparation)
Pre-sprouting is optional but often useful for early varieties and smaller acreages. It can support faster and more even emergence, particularly for early production.
Spread the seed in a single layer in boxes or crates in a light place at roughly 10–15 °C. After a few weeks short, thick, dark green sprouts form. Long white sprouts grown in the dark are not desirable — they break easily. Plant pre-sprouted tubers gently so the sprouts stay intact.
5. Planting step by step
Plant healthy, undamaged whole tubers. Cutting large tubers is not a standard professional practice — it increases infection risk and is not recommended as routine.
Working reference spacings: planting depth 8–12 cm, 30–35 cm within the row, 60–75 cm between rows. These values are indicative; the actual spacing and depth are set by variety, seed size, soil and technology (manual planting, standard planters, ridging planters, drip-irrigation systems).
- Only healthy, whole tubers from certified seed
- Warmed, well-worked, non-compacted soil
- Consistent depth and spacing across the plot
- Ridge high enough to keep tubers out of the light
6. In-season care
Through the season three things matter most: ridging, weeds and even moisture. Ridge progressively until the canopy closes — it protects tubers from light and greening. Weeds are best managed mechanically or agronomically; they compete hard with young plants.
Moisture should be even — the soil should not dry out completely and it should not be waterlogged; waterlogging feeds rots. Watch the canopy and leaves for signs of disease and pests (late blight, Colorado beetle, viruses).
Plant protection follows current authorisations, the product label and expert advice for your region and variety. Universal recommendations to "use a fungicide" or "spray a pesticide" do not apply — the right approach is always specific.
7. When to harvest without damaging tubers
Early potatoes are lifted progressively once they reach a marketable size. Table and processing varieties are harvested after the haulm has died down, when skin is set and tubers are physiologically mature — this greatly reduces mechanical damage during harvest and handling.
Harvest in dry conditions into dry soil. Wet tubers store poorly. Minimise drops, hard impacts and rough handling; every bruise is a gateway for storage rots.
8. Storage
Only healthy, dry, clean and undamaged tubers go into store. Discard damaged or infected tubers at harvest and grading.
The store should be dark, cool, ventilated and at stable humidity. The exact temperature depends on the purpose — table potatoes for fresh use, potatoes for fries or crisps and seed all store differently. There is no single universal temperature that fits every purpose.
Check the store regularly so a local problem does not spread to the whole batch.

9. Common mistakes to avoid
- Using table potatoes from a shop as seed
- Planting into cold or wet, poorly worked soil
- Inconsistent depth and spacing — uneven stand
- Waterlogging or irregular irrigation during the season
- Leaving tubers exposed to light — they turn green and become unsellable
- Storing damaged, wet or infected tubers
10. Frequently asked
- Can I use potatoes from the shop as seed?
- Not for commercial production. Table potatoes are not certified, have no confirmed health status or variety and can carry diseases into the soil for years. Use certified seed for a reliable result.
- How deep should I plant potatoes?
- Roughly 8–12 cm depending on soil type, seed size and technology. Deeper in lighter soils, shallower in heavier ones. The final depth is set for the specific variety and planting method.
- What is the spacing for planting potatoes?
- Typically 30–35 cm within the row and 60–75 cm between rows. These values are indicative; the actual spacing is set by variety, seed size, soil and technology.
- Do potatoes need to be pre-sprouted?
- No. Pre-sprouting can support faster and more even emergence for early varieties and smaller acreages, but it is not a prerequisite for successful planting.
- When is the best time to plant?
- When the soil is warmed to around 8 °C at planting depth as an indicative guide, dry enough and workable. A fixed calendar date is misleading — every year is different.
- How long do potatoes keep in the cellar?
- In stable cool, dark, ventilated conditions with regular checks, healthy undamaged table tubers typically keep for several months. The exact time depends on variety and purpose.
The stated values (depth, spacing, timing, temperatures) are indicative and change with variety, soil, technology and local conditions. Plant protection follows current authorisations and the specific product label.

